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Old 03-02-2010, 12:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default front drive shaft modification for scout II

Hello,
I have a '73 Scout II. I've put on a 4" (sua) suspension lift with six degree castor wedges. Front driveshaft binds. I've heard of modification of the front drive shaft with cv joints. Question is, if this is true, where do I get this item or get this item manufactured.

Thanks,
Keith
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Old 03-02-2010, 03:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: front drive shaft modification for scout II

You should really take the rig to a driveline expert/shop and have THEM look at it and make a recommendation. In fact, I just went through this last week with my own rig regarding a rear driveline, and I'm involved now with having them cut down the rear driveline I removed from my rig to put in the FRONT of a heavily modded/lifted Scout 80/800/II bastard child.

I "thought" I knew STUFF about drivelines, CV joints, shaft angles, etc. until I talked to the MAN and he straightened me out! And ended up saving me a bunch of dinero since a CV system was NOT correct for what I thought I needed!

Playing around with driveshaft systems that are NOT correct is not something I'll ever do again. A good friend in college died when his homebrew driveshaft let go and sawed the vehicle (and him) in half at speed.
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Old 03-03-2010, 01:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: front drive shaft modification for scout II

Also -- if you didn't change the pinion angle ont he axle with a purpose a CV front shaft will probably not help the situation much.

To just gloss over the technical stuff -- in general:

For a standard driveline you want the angles of the output of the t-case and the input of the pinion to be parallel (opposite angles if you measure them -- if the t-case points down 4 degree the pinion needs to point up 4 degrees...)

For a CV driveline you need the pinion to point directly at the output of the t-case.
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Old 03-03-2010, 02:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: front drive shaft modification for scout II

6 shims and 4" lift is your problem.

Remove the shims (or go with something less aggressive) or remove the lift or cut-n-turn or a special "Tom Woods Off-Set U-Joint" are your solutions.
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