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Old 01-24-2012, 07:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1975 Scout II Rewire with Kwickwire harness

I have a 1975 International Scout II. I have just started testing out my lights after installing the new kwickwire 14 circuit harness. I have a mechanical manual to help out with the electrical schematics. I have done it down to the "T". I have the new round eyes headlights, all new round updated gauges, and new stereo also with this new upgrade. But when I have my new headlights pluged in my turn signal relay clicks when I turn my steering wheel. My bright light indicator lights up dimly when I turn the headlights on. It also brightens like its suppose to when I turn the headlights on bright. My left turn light indicator also is on dimly whether the headlights are pluged in or not. I can unplug the headlights and the clicking in the turn signal relay doesn't happen when I turn the steering wheel. I haven't tried starting it yet but I have bumped tested it and it will turn over. All of my park lights, tail lights, signal lights, hazard lights, and headlights all work. My headlights on dim are really dim though. I also had to put in a extra ground for the headlights to get them to come on. Do I need more grounds possible? I know the book that came with the harness said that I had to provide grounds where needed. Any ideas? This is the first electical job that I have tackeled and now I know why!!!!!!!
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: 1975 Scout II Rewire with Kwickwire harness

You must have crossed some things when you modded the gauges. Are you using the original speedo cluster? The link below shows how you can rewire using the stock gauges or aftermarket. Use the Kwik Wire manual to cross reference what you did, versus what these diagrams show. The fact that so many things are wrong probably means it's something simple. Best thing is to re-trace your steps. The kit isn't terribly complicated. You'll find it.

http://www.ihonlynorth.com/forums/el...tta-stone.html
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Old 01-25-2012, 02:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: 1975 Scout II Rewire with Kwickwire harness

I have all new gauges. Speedo, rpm, oil pressure, temp., fuel, and amp. I have some little led bezel lights for my indicator lights. I made my dash cover plate out of painted alluminum. Thanks for the tips. I will check out my gauges.
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Old 01-26-2012, 06:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: 1975 Scout II Rewire with Kwickwire harness

Well I was able to check out my gauges today and they are ok. Although I took my steering colum back apart to try to figure out why or what was making the clicking happen from my relays. Well it wasn't my turn signal relay clicking it was my horn relay clicking. I found that my horn ground has a little power in it. I think that can't be good. So the turn signal canceller has power in it and when you turn the steering wheel the turn canceller grounds on the screw that holds my turn signal handle on and causes the horn relay to click. I also got a new turn signal switch maybe I have the wrong one. My manual shows to have 10 wires from the turn signal switch and this new one has 8 and the one that I pulled out that was all fried up had 8 to the best of my knowledge. So going to do more research on the subject and call ihonlynorth because I have got all of my stuff through them so maybe they can help me figure out about the right switch and about the power in my horn ground. Anyone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. Also I noticed that my harness did not provide a Alt. gauge wire to read my voltage. So where would be the right spot to get that reading from to hook to my alt. gauge?
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Old 01-27-2012, 02:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: 1975 Scout II Rewire with Kwickwire harness

I found out where to hook up my alt. gauge wire. For the ones that don't know you hook a wire on the starter lug where the battery and alt. hooks up and run it to your gauge. Still don't know why there wasn't one in the harness but that isn't a big deal. Also found out that the last 2 of the 10 wires on the orignal turn signal switch wasn't used any ways. They were extras. So the turn signal switch I have is correct. I am still trying to figure out why my horn ground wire has power still. It shows in the manual that the horn is suppose to be grounded inside the steering wheel and I haven't had the steering wheel all together yet. So maybe I need to ground it good? Anyone can help at any time so feel free to put your ideas.
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:02 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: 1975 Scout II Rewire with Kwickwire harness

Sorry for not getting back to ya'll lately but I haven't had time to work on the scout much. I began pulling out my light fixtures and looking at them and I am having to rebuild them. They were messed up. So I got the back done and I am working on the front. I am adding grounds where the manual calls for also along the way. I'm hoping that this might fix my back feeding that is in my left signal indicator and bright light indicator. This is only happening when I turn my park lights and headlights on but the manual says that I have the headlight switch wired correctly. As far as the horn tring to work when I turn the wheel. I remembered that my signal switch didn't fit exactly where the old one was so maybe that little bit of space will correct that. I am going to take the colum back apart and see what is holding it foward. I had to use a little drimmel tool on my colum to get my handle to bolt up on the switch. So maybe I can get the right amount of clearance in there so the turn canceller won't ground out the screw that holds the handle on and make my horn honk. That is what the clicking was, my horn trying to work when I turn the steering wheel. Anyone has any idea where to look about the back feeding when I turn my lights on post up!! Everything works on the scout. I got to start it up this past week and try everything out. Just trying to fine tune that back feeding. I am so ready to drive it again. Haven't got to drive the scout in like 2or 3 months. AAAAHHHHHH!!!
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: 1975 Scout II Rewire with Kwickwire harness

Well I found out that my signal switch wasn't all the way in. There is three screws that hold the switch in and the top left screw has a post that is supposed to fit in a hole. Mine wasn't lined up just right and was held out just a little. I also figured out where my back feeding was coming from on my left signal light. I guess my pig tail on my front signal light was bad causing the back feed some how. I put in a new pig tail and now no more back feeding. I still need some help about back feeding on my bright light indicator. I have that traced down to the head lights their self. How do you get the backfeeding out of the high beam prong when you have the lights on dim? When you put power to one of the three prongs on the head light the other two has power also. So you have to make a good ground on one prong and one prong is dim lights and one prong is bright lights. Any ideas??????
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Re: 1975 Scout II Rewire with Kwickwire harness

There is only one "hot" terminal in the headlight bulb pigtail plug at a time. The dimmer switch can only direct current to one circuit or the other, but not both simultaneously. One terminal feeds the low beam circuit, and the other terminal feeds the high beams. The ground terminal is always constant. When a plug is disconnected from a bulb and viewed from the spade connector side, the horizontal terminal is low beam, the left vertical is high beam, and the right vertical is chassis ground.
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:50 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Default Re: 1975 Scout II Rewire with Kwickwire harness

I believe that I have my headlights wired just like that. Its like it is being back feed through the headlight itself. I can unplug the headlights and everything works like its suppose to and no dim bright light indicator on dim lights. But for now I have a bigger problem. I got the scout back together and started it up but its not running right. My coil got unblievable hot and leaked its oil out. In my manual says that there is a resistor wire that is hooked to my coil from the ignition switch and one from the coil to the starter but my harness uses regular wires. Is this why my coil burnt up (i think it did) and won't idle or run right?????? This was a brand new coil that I had sent to me with my harness so puff goes $50.00 bucks and I need a new one. The scout starts but idles rough and every time you put it in gear to take off it dies. It smooths out a little when you rev it up some but still can tell that something isn't right. Man how much do I wish I was by someone that knew all about this stuff because I would pay for some help. Now I know why I am not a electrician because I hate it!!!!!! HELP ME PLEASE!!!!!!!
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Re: 1975 Scout II Rewire with Kwickwire harness

Sorry about your ignition woes. The resisted or ballasted feed is necessary for breaker points ignition systems. So if you have points, then you will need to get a ballast resistor to interrupt your key ON feed wire to the coil.
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Favorite hobby...Driving Salma Hayek in my Scout

Hooty - '74 SII - 392/TF727/D20/3.73 D44's/Spartan FA/Krac-lok RA/RC 4" SUA/33" TSL's/33g Tank/HFT 8k winch
Mongo - '71 1210 Std Cab 2WD - 345/TF727/RA17 D60 4.10 Trac-lok - "Mongo love candy! Duh, huh, huh!"
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Re: 1975 Scout II Rewire with Kwickwire harness

Thanks for the info about the resistor. Picking one up today and a new coil but I might need some other parts now after reading some post. So I just learned that I am not to leave my key in the on poistion for an extended amount of time or I could cause a melt down. So I need to know what all to check now since I probably melted down? I was doing a light check and trying to figure out if my NSS/back-up lights switch and 4wd light was working and found that my coil had leaked its oil out and to hot to touch. So now my scout will start but runs like crap and need to know what all I should check and or replace? and what all do I need to go to electronic ignition if I did fry my points? I have another scout with the electronic ignition to rob parts from if I knew what all I needed to do.
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:04 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Default Re: 1975 Scout II Rewire with Kwickwire harness

I'd advise the K.I.S.S method for now...as in Keep It Simple, Scizzout. You've already got your hands full de-bugging the new wiring harness. Mixing and matching parts from various model years often leads to more trouble than its worth. There's nothing wrong with breaker points, other than they require periodic attention in order to maintain a proper state of tune. In your case, the overheated coil is likely your biggest issue, however the points may have overheated as well. This would be evident in the form of blue discoloration. Points are wear items to be replaced after so many miles of service as a normal tune up procedure anyway. So if they need to be replaced, simply replace them with an inexpensive like item and set the gap. Easy as pie. Yes, leaving the key in the run position without the engine running for any longer than a quick minute for diagnostic purposes is a bad idea. That's what the ACC position is for.
So what you need is a stock Scout II ignition coil which will have a primary resistance of @ 1.4 ohm. You also need a porcelain ballast resistor with a value of @ 1.8 ohm. In combination this will give you a total primary resistance value of @ 3.2 ohms, which is ideal for the longevity of your points and for keeping your coil cool.
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Favorite hobby...Driving Salma Hayek in my Scout

Hooty - '74 SII - 392/TF727/D20/3.73 D44's/Spartan FA/Krac-lok RA/RC 4" SUA/33" TSL's/33g Tank/HFT 8k winch
Mongo - '71 1210 Std Cab 2WD - 345/TF727/RA17 D60 4.10 Trac-lok - "Mongo love candy! Duh, huh, huh!"
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:31 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Default Re: 1975 Scout II Rewire with Kwickwire harness

Thanks for the info!!!! I will go ahead and get some points and the condenser as well. I haven't messed with points before. It probably is best to keep it simple for right now though. Both of my scouts are 1975 models with 345 engines and automatic transmissions the only things not the same would be the transfer cases and the points or electronic ignition. I have all the bugs worked out of the harness but the back feeding on the bright light indicator. Maybe I can get this stuff put in today and get back with ya on how its doing. Hopefully it won't be nothing but smiles!!!! I really appericate the help and suggestions.
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:08 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Default Re: 1975 Scout II Rewire with Kwickwire harness

Sure. The Holley Gold Box electronic ignition was original equipment for '75 model year Scouts. Either someone retro-fitted your project Scout with a breaker points setup, or the engine was swapped in from an earlier model. The Gold Box setup has gained a reputation for being failure prone.
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Favorite hobby...Driving Salma Hayek in my Scout

Hooty - '74 SII - 392/TF727/D20/3.73 D44's/Spartan FA/Krac-lok RA/RC 4" SUA/33" TSL's/33g Tank/HFT 8k winch
Mongo - '71 1210 Std Cab 2WD - 345/TF727/RA17 D60 4.10 Trac-lok - "Mongo love candy! Duh, huh, huh!"
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Default Re: 1975 Scout II Rewire with Kwickwire harness

Man that is the exact one (Holly gold box electric ignition) that is in the parts donor so I guess that I will flush that idea down the drain. Back to the points. The set of points and condenser that I picked up today were the wrong ones. Imagine that!! So I can't tell you if they worked or not but I do know that my scout will not start at all today though. I will try again tomorrow to get the right parts and if not I will have to wait a week by the time that IHON ships them all the way to Drasco Arkansas. I will post up when I get the right points in and tried.
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